CONVENTIONAL SETUP
Cables
Connecting Cables have an important effect on the final sound quality. Similar lengths of good quality speaker cable should be used. Longer cables will generally require heavier gauge cables.
All system connections should be clean and tight. Cleaning of all signal path connections is recommended annually. Simply breaking and remaking each connection ensuring a positive contact is all that is needed.
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Conventional wiring
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Switch the amplifier off. Never make or break any connection with the amplifier powered or with the volume turned up.
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Leave the Bi-wire links fitted between the input terminals in place. Take each channel separately to avoid confusion. First, identify the amplifiers left channel. You will be connecting these terminals to the left loudspeaker, this the speaker on the left as seen from the chosen listening position.
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Connect the black terminal on the amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'negative' or with a - symbol) to the black terminal on the left loudspeaker. Make the connection's to the upper pair of the terminals marked HF. Your speaker cable may be ribbed or over- printed along one conductor to help wiring up. Now connect the red terminal on the amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'positive' or with a + symbol) to the red terminal on the left loudspeaker. Repeat the process for the right channel with the second length of cable. Refer to the diagrams.
BI-WIRING
Bi-wiring Rogers loudspeakers feature split crossovers to allow for bi-wiring. This can improve the overall sound quality for the cost of a second set of cables. Bi-wiring keeps the low frequency ground currents from modulating the higher frequency signals in the treble 'leg' of the crossover network. The split crossover design permits the mid/ treble and bass sections to be fed separately.
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Two length's of four-core bi-wire cable or additional lengths of your existing cable are required.
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Switch off the amplifier. You may find it helpful to label cables before starting to wire up the system. Label one pair of cables HF and the other LF. Remove the bi-wire links from between the speaker terminals and store them in case you wish to revert to conventional wiring at any point in the future.
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Take each channel separately. Connect the black terminal on the amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'negative' or with a - symbol) to the black HF terminal on the left loudspeaker. Your speaker cable may be ribbed or over- printed along one conductor to help wiring up. Now connect the red terminal on the amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'positive' or with a + symbol) to the red HF terminal on the left loudspeaker.
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Repeat this process for the cable pair you have marked LF, connecting the same amplifier terminals but making the connections on the left speaker to the lower pair of terminals also marked LF. Refer to the diagrams. Repeat for the HF and LF right channel connections.
BI-AMPING
Bi-amping uses separate full bandwidth power amplifiers to drive the separate HF and LF legs of the crossover network and appropriate drivers.
Two length's of four-core bi-wire cable or additional lengths of your existing cable are required.
Switch off the amplifier. You may find it helpful to label cables before starting to wire up the system. Label one pair of cables HF and the other LF. Remove the BI-wire links from between the speaker terminals and store them in case you wish to revert to conventional wiring at any point in the future. Designate one amplifier High (HF) and one Low (LF).
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Take each channel separately. Connect the black terminal on the HF amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'negative' or with a - symbol) to the black HF terminal on the left loudspeaker. Make certain your connection is to the upper pair of terminals marked HF. Your speaker cable may be ribbed or over- printed along one conductor to help wiring up. Now connect the red terminal on the HF amplifier left channel (possibly marked 'positive' or with a + symbol) to the red HF terminal on the left loudspeaker.
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It is easier at this stage to wire up the right channel for the HF amplifier connecting the black terminal on the HF amplifier connecting the black terminal on the HF amplifier right channel (possibly marked 'negative' or with a - symbol) to the black HF terminal on the right loudspeaker. Then connect the red terminal on the HF amplifier right channel (possibly marked 'positive' or with a + symbol) to the red HF terminal on the right loudspeaker.
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Repeat these four connections using the cable pair you have marked LF connecting the left and right LF amplifier terminals to the lower pair of terminal's, also marked LF, on the left and right speakers. Refer to the diagrams.
SPEAKER PLACEMENT
The correct frequency response (tonal balance) is achieved from the loudspeaker with their grilles in place. Removal of the grilles will compromise high and mid frequency performance.
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Loudspeakers should never be placed tightly in the corners of rooms. While this dramatically increases bass in one frequency band it produces a cancellation 'suck-out' in the next. Though certain types of music may be artificially enhanced the effect is very unnatural as can be heard in reproduced speech as a 'boomy' or congested quality. Placing stand mounted speakers on the floor will create a similar effect.
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If speakers have to be placed close to the corners of a room they should be placed asymmetrically with respect to the two walls, that is at a different distance from the side and rear wall. Careful listening and experimentation with positions can minimise the effects of room reflections on bass reinforcement and cancellation.
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Reflections at high frequencies from any large flat sound-reflecting surface (wall, mirror, furniture) can adversely affect stereo imaging. Soft furnishings and fabrics can be used to change reflections if the speakers cannot be conveniently repositioned.